Wow @Cwayman that’s some bad news but you can get your money back. I’m picturing in my head what you’re describing the mechanic found. It’s is crazy to imagine because the other sets of wheels I have are the previous generation of Tokyowheel and I’ve put them through a lot, especially the wheels I ride for cyclocross. did you want me to still measure the spoke tension of my previous generation wheels tomorrow when I’m at the shop for a run just for a reference? Oh, I’ll take my Zipp 202s 202’s as well.
Oh wow. That’s definitely not what it’s supposed to be like.
It’s great that we’ve found the issue, now we can resolve it.
Thankfully this is covered under your warranty and a pretty straightforward fix. We’ll send you a replacement rim, you can take it to your favorite local shop and have the new rim swapped with the old, and we’ll reimburse you 110% of that cost. We’ll help you with the details via email. Sorry about this! Is there anything else we can do while we’re at it, to make this situation as good as possible?
I have not asked about the spoke tension yet but I will when I pick up the bike as the shop got to it late last night which is why I got an update via phone for a pick up Thursday (tomorrow). Yes, your spoke tension number would be great for reference so I very much appreciate you doing that for me.
In response to the wheels I suppose it is possible every now and then to get a faulty one?
I appreciate your prompt response.
That is awesome and puts my mind at rest as I haven’t had the wheels long. I have emailed you to get the ball rolling.
I appreciate you asking if there is anything extra you could do but I don’t suppose there is apart from maybe including a couple of the new TokyoWheel QR skewers? Just as my current second generation ones flex a lot.
I’m sorry I didn’t reply earlier. I went to my LBS on Wed and ran with the group and didn’t check email that morning before I left. I need to drive into town this weekend to run errands on Sunday so I’ll take those spoke tension measurements at the shop. At this time I have 3 set of Tokyowheels so I’ll only take measurements of the rear wheels and along with my wife’s and my Zipp wheels which are of very similar depth.
Glad to see that things are moving towards a resolution for you.
That’s awesome attilashelton.
Thanks a lot.
Out of question which TW do you own?
For road I have the older generation Epic 38. I use those as daily trainers. Only problem I ever had with them was rear bearings or when I was forced off the road and wiped out in a ditch; had to true the wheel but nothing significant. I replaced the house bearings with Enduro for <$25 USD and they’ve been great. Vapor hubs, Pillar spokes and lot of miles. I’m light so not really torquing them much.
For race wheels I have the Epic 50s, DT swiss hubs and Sapim spokes. No problems to date. Will soon need to replace bearings in front hub; feel some unevenness so it’s time for service or replacement bearings.
For cyclocross, I had 2 sets of Elite 38s. 1 set was rim brake which I gave to my coach. the other set I still race and has the Vapor hub and disc brake, Pillar spokes and no problems.I do service them more often; sealed bearings doesn’t mean no maintenance so I have added fresh grease 3 or 4 times. Will be at the shop on Sunday. I’ll need to get the conversion table for their Park TM-1 or you can pull it up from the Park tool website.
Hi @CWayman, sure, would you be interested in a stiffer steel axle as opposed to the current Titanium?
apologies for not posting earlier; the weekend was busy so not able to measure the spoke tension until today. I only took in 2 of my Rear wheels. The Elite 38 tubular (I use for cyclocross) with the Vapor hub and Pillar spokes running Challenge Griffo tubeless and the Epic 50 (I use for crits and RR) running Continental GP4000S II on the DTSwiss J-bend hub and Sapim spokes. I didn’t take my 3rd rear wheel in; guess I’m lazy.
I don’t have any of the TW straight pull hubs. So tonight after the run I used the shops Park TM-1 tool to measure the tension. I didn’t convert to the actual Newtons or Kgf so what I have are just the raw deflections. I didn’t measure the spoke diameter and use the Park Tools chart but here’s what I got.
Elite Drive side was about 24; non-drive was 17ish (drive side 24, 24, 24, 24.5, 24, 24.5, 24, 24.5 24.5 24.5, 24, 25 Non-drive was 16, 16.25, 17, 17, 16.5, 17.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 16.5, 16, 17)
Epic Drive drive side was (23,25, 22, 21, 23, 22.5, 22.5, 22, 23, 22, 22.25, 23,21 and Non-drive was 15, 14.5, 13,5, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14, 13.5, 14, 14.5) If you want the spoke diameter conversions just let me know and I’ll measure and confirm the spokes since i have both the Pillar and Sapim spokes.
Yeah, the steel axle would be much much appreciated. I think this would help a lot with the flex too.
Thank you so much for all of the info you have gone out of your way to provide. This helps me greatly.
I am going to buy a Park TM-1 and I can relay the info when I get the wheel rebuilt when my new rim arrives
I have Sapim spokes but don’t know which material or diameter these are for the conversion chart so some idea of that would be great!
The Park TM-1 will come with a small tool to measure the spoke diameter. Once you get the wheel rebuilt please post what you discover; I’m curious if a different wheel builder will affect the deflection you experience on that rear wheel.
Excellent thanks @attilashelton
Wondering if you were able to get the Park tool and measure the spoke tension?
Not yet as my replacement rim has literally just arrived yesterday (28/06/2017) so I will be getting it to the shop asap to get it built. Then I will check the tension on the spokes and post them.
@James_Ferrer I haven’t yet received the steel axles, are these currently in transit?
Thanks and looking forward to posting an update soon and more importantly riding my wheels. Just done an event with my 60mm front and a training wheel for the rear. Turned a few heads!